When choosing a blade, you should pay attention to three main aspects: concavity, pre-curve, and material.
Concavity: The deeper the concavity of the blade, the better the ball stays on the blade during shots and dekes. A deep concavity (e.g., 9.5 mm) is suitable for goal scorers. A moderate concavity (e.g., 8.0 mm) makes backhand play and accurate passes easier.
Pre-curve: A pre-curved blade helps the ball lift more easily and provides extra power for wrist shots. Straighter blades are favored by playmakers due to their predictability.
Stiffness and weight: Lightweight blades make the stick tip-light and quick to handle. Stiffer, carbon-reinforced blades (MBC/Carbon), on the other hand, offer maximum power transfer for hard shots.
PP SOFT (PPS)
PPS is a durable and soft material, offering a silky smooth ball feel. The polypropylene blade retains its shape well but requires proper heating when curving the blade.
PP BOOST (PPB)
PP Boost is a durable and medium-stiff material. PP Boost is slicker and stiffer than regular PP while maintaining the same ball feel. The polypropylene material holds its shape well but requires good heating when curving the blade.
PP HARD (PPH)
PP Hard is a durable and stiff material. PP Hard is 20% stiffer and slicker than PP Boost, while retaining the good ball feel familiar from PP blades. The polypropylene material holds its shape well but requires good heating when curving the blade.
PE
The traditional one. Polyethylene is a durable and medium-stiff material with a good ball feel. Polyethylene slides best on every surface.
FH2 Pre-curve
The blade has an even curve along its entire length, enhanced with a slight face.
FH4 Pre-curve
The blade has a straight heel, a claw-like curve at the tip, enhanced with a slight face.
FACTORY HOOK PLAYMAKER
A versatile choice for a playmaker. An agile and fast blade with a 5-rib structure. Even concavity from heel to tip.
Blades can also be curved manually by heating the blade and bending it into the desired shape. According to the rules, a blade can be curved by a maximum of 3cm.
The blade is a wearing part of the stick. It should be replaced with a new one when:
The blade has softened: Continuous shooting fatigues the plastic, causing the blade to become "flimsy" and the shot to lose its snap.
The base is worn: If the ribs on the bottom of the blade are worn thin, the blade may break or its characteristics may change.
You want to change your playing style: Sometimes just changing the blade from straighter to more curved (or vice versa) can give your stick a whole new life without having to replace the entire stick.
A floorball blade is a wearing part, but replacing it is quite simple.
Removing the screws: Unscrew the fastening screws located at the heel of the blade. Keep them safe unless you are replacing them with new ones.
Heating: Gently heat the heel of the blade with a heat gun. The heat will cause the plastic to expand and any glue to soften, making the blade easier to remove. Be careful not to burn the shaft or the blade!
Removal: Pull the old blade off the shaft with a firm motion. If the blade is stuck, try gently wiggling it while pulling.
Installing the new blade: Heat the heel of the new blade for a moment to help it slide into place more easily. Push the blade onto the end of the shaft as far as it goes. Pay attention to the grooving at the bottom of the blade, which locks the blade at the correct angle. Ensure the blade is straight in relation to the shaft's grip.
Fastening: Screw the screws back into place. If the new blade is a different model than the old one, you may need to drill new small pilot holes into the shaft.
Tip: Always check after replacement that the blade isn't loose. A securely fastened blade ensures the best ball control and safety on the field.
